When I first bought my 2012 T5.1, it came with a Parrot hands-free kit, and while it worked perfectly, I wanted the extra features that the factory Bluetooth has, such as streaming music from my phone (known as A2DP). While you can achieve this using aftermarket modules, I much prefer the OEM solution.

VAG uses something they call production codes (known as PR Codes) to differentiate the installed equipment on your vehicle. The installed equipment PR Codes are then printed on a label and stuck somewhere on your vehicle. In this post we refer to the part numbers to install 9W7 Bluetooth equipment. 9W7 is the ‘Standard’ level of which will provide handsfree calls, A2DP music streaming and access to my phone-book from the head-unit (requires RCD510/RNS510).

Note: This post is witten for a T5.1 with the white MFD (multi function display). The part numbers could potentially work on the T6, however this hasn’t been tested. In order to get the best experience from the retrofit, you’ll need to either have an RCD 510, RNS 510 or an RCD 310 with a multi-function steering wheel.

Parts required

Bluetooth module

There are many variations of Bluetooth modules that come fitted to Audi, VW, Skoda and Seat vehicles and it can be a minefield trying to figure out which part numbers will work with your model year of Van.

Below is a list of 9W7 Bluetooth modules:


There are other levels of Bluetooth modules that are available on the T5.1, the model numbers for those are:

9ZU ‘Premium’ modules, which seems to require the highline dash (or the full Driver Information System):


Bluetooth module mounting bracket

In order to mount your module safely in the dashboard, you’ll need to original bracket. While these rarely come up on sale on eBay etc, they can be bought direct from the Dealer for not much money. I paid in the region of £20 for mine.

7E2035462 (RHD)
7E2035462A (LHD)
N 90468403 (Mounting Bolt x 2)

In order to attach the mount to the cross member, you’ll need to above 2 mounting bolts, however if like me, your cross member doesn’t come with threaded holes, you’ll need to figure out a way to mount the bracket. Initially I used cable ties, and while it did hold it fine, it looked a bit rubbish. I decided to buy a selection of mounting clips from Amazon and use these to get a more factory look.

Wiring Loom

This is the part I thought would be the most difficult, yet it turned out to be the easiest, mainly due to the fact I used this plug and play adapter from CarSystems.pl.

Microphone 3B0035711B

This is available from the folks at CarSystems.pl as part of the wiring loom kit, or it can be purchased separately from the dealership or bought used from eBay or breakers yard. These are readily available as they are fitted in most models within the VAG range of models.

Internal reading light 3B0947105C

As this microphone is housed within the interior light you may need to swap it out for one that has space for the microphone. As you can see in the photo below, there is a series of holes in the shape of a grid, this is where the microphone sits behind. If yours doesn’t look like the photo below, you’ll need a new interior light.


Before you begin installation, make sure you have all the tools you require.

Tools required

Torx screwdrivers – A Torx 20 screwdriver/bit.
Trim removal tool – I used this kit from Amazon or a similar kit from eBay, good quality at a reasonable price. Don’t use screwdrivers, one slip and you’ve scratched your dash.
Mixed fixing clip set – A handy kit to have whenever doing any work on cars, this kit from Amazon provides you with many different clips.
Cable ties
Black electrical tape
VCDS – This is essential for this job, check Ross-techs website for a distributor near you. https://www.ross-tech.com/distributors.php or check out eBay for used ones (or rent one from some sellers!)

Removing the internal/reading light

  1. Remove the plastic light lens by pulling down from the side closest to the windscreen in a hinging motion.
  2. Using a Torx 20 bit, remove the 2 screws holding the light unit to the roof.
  3. Pull the light unit down and disconnect the wiring.

Removing the glovebox

  1. Open the glove-box and remove the 5 screw covers using a small screwdriver, being careful not to scratch the cover or the glove-box.
  2. Using a Tox 20 bit, remove the 5 screws beneath the covers.
  3. Use the lid to pull the glovebox forward and up slightly
  4. Set the glovebox and screws to one side so you can gain access.

Removing the headunit/radio

  1. Remove the storage tray located above the head-unit by using a trim removal tool to pull upwards the edge closest to the windscreen.
  2. Looking down on the area where the storage tray was, you will see 2 screws holding the dash cover on. Remove using the 2 Torx 20 screws.
  3. Pulling the dash cover from the top and working your way around the sides. Pull the cover away from the dash. (the cover is clipped into place, however take care not to pry too much as it could break the dash cover or clips).
  4. Remove the 4 screws holding the head-unit in.
  5. Slide the head unit forward and undo the Quadlock connector.
  6. Store head-unit to one side.

Remove the A pillar trim

  1. Using a trim tool, remove the speaker cover located in the corner of the dash near the A pillar trim base.
  2. Working from the top, pull the trim towards the middle of the van, until all clips have released.
  3. Set the A trim pillar to one side

Mounting the bracket

  1. With the glove-box removed, you should now have access to, and be able to see, the cross member. Sat in the van, looking forward, feel on the back of the cross member, from the nearside of the van, for 2 holes that line up with the Bluetooth bracket mounting holes.
  2. Find a suitable clip that will allow you to mount the bracket to the cross member.
  3. Line up the bracket with the holes and insert the clips to securely mount the bracket.


  1. Working from the point you’ve attached the mounting bracket, run the new wiring loom along the existing vehicle wiring loom to behind the head-unit.
  2. Connect the vans existing Quadlock connector into the Bluetooth wiring loom.
  3. Run microphone wiring loom up from the bracket, along the cross member to towards the nearside of the van and up the A pillar to the headlining. Use a rod to pull the cable from the A pillar to the hole where the interior light is.
  4. Insert the microphone into the back of the light, behind the grid, until it clicks.
  5. Insert the multi-plug on the new loom into the Bluetooth module and then insert the module into the mounting bracket. This is done by inserting the bottom tabs into the bracket and then lowering the top of the module onto the clip until it clicks.
  6. Use the cable ties and black tape to secure the new loom to the existing vehicle loom and to make the installation tidy.

This is what the Bluetooth module looks like once it’s mounted in it’s bracket and the wiring loom is run.

Coding and Testing

Before you begin to put the dashboard back together, it’s important to code and test the installation. Firstly, insert the Quadlock connector that is on the new loom into the head-unit (along with any other connectors removed from the head-unit earlier) and then connect the vans original Quadlock connector into the new loom. This essentially extends the existing loom while splicing in the Bluetooth modules connection. Once you connect the Quadlock, the head-unit will probably go through some initialising and therefore you might hear some noise coming from it.

At this point, we need to code the module to the vehicle’s computer, or CAN gateway to be more specific. To do this we need to use Ross Techs VCDS. While this is an expensive piece of kit, it more than pays for itself if you plan on doing other retrofits. If you don’t fancy buying one, you can often find people who will come to your house and let you use their cable for a small fee. Alternatively most specialist VW garages will have the necessary equipment to code the Bluetooth module.


With VCDS loaded, enter the CAN Gateway controller and select Installation list. A table should appear with a list of modules. Scroll down and select ’77 – Telephone’ and the click ‘Save Coding’. This will return you back to the controller screen, shortly followed my a success message. Now click on ‘Close Controller’ to get back to the list of installed modules.

You should now see that the 77 – Telephone option is now displayed. Due to the many variations in installation you may need to select different options from the Coding screen. For me, using the 5K0 035 730 modules from a Seat Ibiza meant I need to use the Adaption option to change the UHV display value to ‘VW PHONE’ and then use the ‘Basic Settings’ option to do a full adaption reset. Once I’d done that, I could pair with the vehicle (password is 0000) and stream music through my phone. Success!!

Assembly is the reverse of removal!

As the famous books say, assembly is the reverse of removal. Now you need to put all your dash back together, simply follow the steps above, but in reverse and you should have a rebuilt dash. Just be careful when refitting the A pillar trims as the clips need to be lined up, otherwise it’s easy to snap or bend them.


If you follow the steps above, using the part numbers above, you should have working OEM Bluetooth just like VW always intended.

I hope you found this post useful and any questions please leave them below and I’ll do my best to answer them.


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